The increased regens alone might suggest a dying DPF (at 132,000 miles you are in potential dead DPF territory), the engine map will be putting more stress through the engine and its peripherals which may contribute to a premature DPF death. My guess would be worn turbo seals, engine oil is seeping into the DPF which is slowly killing it.
Firstly I'm not a qualified mechanic by any stretch I'm just going by what I've read online and with basic knowledge of cars. So I've got a 2014 Mazda 6 2.2d sport grand tourer which I bought from a trader in July, worked absolutely fine up until around a month ago when it started to show the 'low oil pressure, engine damage possible, check oil level' red triangle warning light on the clusterThe DPF switch is used to initiate the Stationary Forced Regeneration. If a Stationary Forced Regeneration is required you will be prompted by a warning in the DIP (see opposite) and will need to carry out a vehicle safety check before pressing the DPF switch up once, the EMS then carries out a system self check.
Both active and passive regeneration happens automatically, without the intervention of a mechanic or DPF specialist. Forced regeneration – If neither of the above methods work, the garage will need to clean the blocked DPF. This will cost between £85-100 for a straightforward job or as part of regular maintenance. DPF cleaning cost I have a 2010 reg Mazda 3 1.6 diesel (same engine as Focus) with DPF issues.. Had a forced re-gen done twice in the past 14 months. Engine light on & diognostics telling me the module that injects the Eloys fluid into the DPF is not working. About £600 to fix.. So I want to use this additive stuff or at least give it a try. Which is best ??? NJ99h.